As I pen this column,
Virginia’s trails are no doubt overrun by Memorial Day hikers, and for that
very reason I have resisted the urge to visit my favorite spot in the
Shenandoah National Park. Next weekend
should be no different; as the first Saturday in June is officially designated
“National Trails Day,” a celebration of the wonderful system of paths veining
our beautiful country. In honor of this
event, I’ll detail a few places I’ve developed a soft spot for in and around
central Virginia.
Saint Mary’s Wilderness
The Saint Mary’s is a
special place to me and a popular and well-known destination for hikers and
fishermen alike.
This federally-designated
wilderness of almost 10,000 acres is situated in southeastern Augusta County,
surrounding the upper Saint Mary’s River.
About 17 miles of trail negotiate the rugged gorge that guides the
river, from the lower end of the property near Raphine up to the southern edge
of Big Levels at Green Pond.
The Saint Mary’s Falls
Trail begins at the lower parking lot, accessible via Forest Service Road 41, and,
moving northeast, fords the river before dead-ending at the wilderness’s
dominating feature—Saint Mary’s Falls.
This is by far the most popular hike; the plunge pool below the falls is
usually full of cliff-divers during the warmer months.
The Mine Bank Trail
descends into the gorge from the Blue Ridge Parkway near the Fork Mountain
Overlook near Milepost 23, following one of the River’s largest tributaries,
Mine Bank Creek. Roughly two miles of
downhill trekking will land one at the intersection of the lengthy Saint Mary’s
Trail, just within striking distance of the river. There are a handful of quality camp spots at
the base of the hollow where the waters converge, making this trail popular
among backpackers. Keep in mind, though
the hike in is relatively easy as it is all downhill, the reverse trip is
strenuous. Plan time accordingly.
The Saint Mary’s
Trail—the property’s longest trail—begins at Green Pond. Forest Service Road 162 branches north from
the Parkway at Milepost 22.2 at Bald Mountain Overlook and leads to this
trailhead, which is probably the least-utilized.
Sugar Hollow, North Fork of the Moormans River
I’m not giving away any
secrets here. Much to the chagrin of
Charlottesville’s brook trout fishing crew, the parking lot at this trailhead
near the upper end of Charlottesville’s Sugar Hollow Reservoir is rarely devoid
of a car, but it has earned respect from me, both for the experiences I’ve had
in the Hollow and for its closeness.
Follow Garth Road west
from Charlottesville and continue on Route 614 until reaching Sugar Hollow
Reservoir. The trail departs from the
parking lot at the upper end of the reservoir.
Three river fords and
2.3 miles of trail separate the parking lot and the Big Branch spur trail on
the left that ascends to the Skyline Drive at Black Rock Gap in 3.7 miles. The main trail continues past the spur, generally
following the river.
If you arrive at the
trailhead and the parking lot is slammed, you may achieve a bit more solitude
by opting to hike the South Fork of the Moormans River instead. A yellow iron gate bars the head of this
trail on the downstream side of the parking lot. Ford the river in the first few yards, then
continue up the trail to the famed “Blue Hole”—a seemingly bottomless swimming
hole.
Humpback Rock
Again, this is no
secret. The Humpback Rock trail is
easily one of the most popular hikes in Virginia thanks to the beautiful
panoramic view of Shenandoah’s west slope and the Shenandoah Valley, but if
you’re looking for a short, fun hike with a great reward, you can’t beat it.
At Milepost 5.8 on the
Blue Ridge Parkway, at the base of the Mountain Farm Trail, there is a 19th
Century interpretive farm setup. This
marks the trailhead for reaching Humpback Rock.
This is a short trail
of about a mile that gains roughly 800 feet in elevation. The first portion of the trail is graveled
and very steep, but the remainder is rugged, steep, and somewhat muddy.
The namesake
outcropping at the peak is well worth the expended energy, though there is an
astonishing amount of writing on the rocks from past hikers.
Once you’ve
familiarized yourself with the trail, pack your headlamp and camp out on the
peak to watch the sun set over the Valley.
Now that I’m through
with this column, I’m excited to go exploring in the days to come. I’ve only named three, but there are
countless other hikes of equal or greater challenge and reward within a short
trip from Charlottesville. Get out and
take advantage of the miles of trail within our very own Shenandoah National
Park this weekend! □
*Originally published in the Rural Virginian
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